By Ruth

Distance: 16 km

After yesterday’s rain- and mud-filled slog, we needed some payoff today. And we got it before 8 am, as we headed up to the Travers Saddle.

We set off from the hut and were immediately in alpine terrain. It was a cold and fairly clear morning, and the sun hadn’t reached the mountain amphitheatre we were in yet. A very light snow was drifting down. It was a steep climb up as more and more surrounding mountains came into view. These mountains were a lot more dramatic than the ones in the Richmonds. We were relishing in the beauty and the feeling of being deep in the mountains.

After the saddle it was a steep decent down into the forested river valley, but the trail was nice and soft and it went quickly. We reached a hut in time for an early lunch which was very enjoyable. Eating at a table, inside and safe from the sandflies, was an absolute treat.

After lunch we kept walking for half an hour or so before stopping at one of the many streams for a quick dip, which felt amazing. I’m not sure if it’s normal or because of the recent rains, but all the rivers and streams were flowing very fast and loud today. We could see waterfalls pouring down off the surrounding mountains. A bit more walking, now heading back uphill, and we reached Blue Lake hut where we are staying for the night. We got here early, just after 4, which was great, as it meant we had time to go for a walk to look at the lake (the clearest lake in the world, apparently) and go for another dip in the icy cold stream next to the hut. This was our first proper cold plunge in NZ (usually the streams aren’t too cold) and it felt amazing. Plus it makes such a difference to go to bed feeling washed clean of the dirt, sweat, and sunscreen of the day.

First thing tomorrow we will go over Waiau Pass itself, then drop back down to the valley on the other side. So it will be another day of big elevation changes. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and we will get more beautiful alpine scenery to start our day off right.